Nixon's Nuggets: Tubulars vs. Clinchers

Stewart Nixon (Colorado) is a recurring columnist on the Triple Threat blog. He's been a triathlete for 25+ years, and has a ton of knowledge on the sport. Here he breaks down a difficult question many triathletes face: "should I go with tubular or clincher wheels??"

I remember the first time I got a “real” bike and the exhilarating feeling of riding it. It was light, (compared to my previous single speed Schwinn), sleek, had lots of gears and the tires were really skinny and fast. I was in love. Fast forward about 10 years, my second season racing triathlons. A cycling friend convinced me to build a set of dedicated, lightweight racing wheels. Mavic 531 hubs slotted by hand with DT bladed spokes laced to Matrix ISO T rims. The “T” stood for tubular; my first foray into “real” wheels. Once they were done and tires mounted, I took them for a test spin. A familiar feeling came over me as I rode around an empty parking lot on my new wheels. It was that same exhilarating feeling I experienced 10 years earlier on my first “real” bike. I was in love, again. And I haven’t ridden clinchers since then. All of my road/TT bikes, all five of them, have tubular wheels.

Tubulars or clinchers, which is better? This is an age old question almost as old as the bike itself. For a long, long time, the answer was simple; if you wanted to ride fast, you rode tubulars. After all, they were the wheel of choice of all professional riders.

tubular rim

Tubular rims required a little less material to manufacture than clinchers, so they were lighter. Most tubular tires were made from superior materials than clinchers, often using latex tubes instead of butyl, which made them lighter also. Since you mounted the tire directly to the rim, there were no pinch flats. Tubular tires often could hold a much high PSI than clinchers with no fear of them blowing off the rim. This higher PSI rating also meant lower rolling resistance. And they just felt darn FAST! The one downside was the gluing process. It was (and still is) messy and can take a while to set up a fresh pair of tires onto tubular rims. Then there was the big question, how much glue to use? Use too much and you could be stuck for quite some time if you flatted while you wrestled the tire off the rim. Use too little and you could roll a tire off the rim (I’ve seen that happen and it ain’t pretty).

clincher rim

Over the years, clincher technology closed the gap both with regard to rims and tires. Carbon rims seemed to be a major game changer, giving tubulars the advantage as the whole rim could be made from carbon, even the braking surface. All carbon clinchers had an aluminum braking surface until 2010 when Zipp debuted the first full carbon clincher rim. So performance wise, the differences are almost negligible now.

Which is best for you? I think it all boils down to two things: your mechanical abilities (read flat changing capabilities) and money. Carbon clincher wheelsets are a little more expensive that the same tubular wheelset. You then need to factor in tires and tubes. Typically, a high quality tubular racing tire is more expensive that similar quality clinchers. And clincher choices are more available at your LBS than tubulars. The initial tire mounting process for clinchers is a bit easier and less time consuming than for tubulars. If you do decide on tubulars, you are better served to learn how to glue tires yourself rather than leaving it up to your trusted mechanic. The benefit is two-fold; you’ll know how much glue you used to mount it so you’ll know the force required to take the tire off in the case of a flat and you’ll get practice mounting the tire which will help you when you have to mount a new tire after a flat. Then there is the tire changing process in the event of a flat to consider. Many feel, myself included, that changing a tubular is easier and faster than changing a tube on a clincher. Either way, practice is the key to changing a flat quickly. But with the advent of preventative tire sealant technology, unless someone litters the race course with tacks, you can pretty much sail along without worry. Finally, there is the “feel” factor. Which one feels fast to you? For me, tubulars will always win this battle.

Nixon's Nuggets of Knowledge - Archives:

Nixon's Nuggets - Spring Bike Maintenance 101

Nixon's Nuggets - Spring Bike Maintenance: Advanced Course

Nixon's Nuggets - Chain Suck Sucks

Nixon's Nuggets - Roka Maverick Pro Review

Nixon's Nuggets - Indoor Trainers... A Pain Cave Necessity

Nixon's Nuggets - Spring Bike Maintenance (Advanced Course)

I recently covered some minimum items to check before your first outdoor ride as well as a “quick check” before each ride. This week, I’ll delve into some more complex items that your bike may or may not need. And by more complex I mean that they require more “bike only” tools as well as a deeper working knowledge of the different systems. I won’t go into how it’s done but rather give you an idea of the tools necessary to complete them.   

Next steps

In addition to the “minimum” guidelines, add these “next steps” for a more thorough check-up.  If you want to tackle this at home, these will require more specialized tools and a bit of bike maintenance knowledge.  

·         Inspect and clean headset bearings/cups – This requires the removal of your top cap and stem in order to access the headset bearings and the cups where the bearings reside. This can be done using regular tools (Allen wrenches) unless you have an older, threaded headset. Then you will need the proper size headset wrenches. If the bearings feel gritty or are difficult to turn in your hands, replace them, but inspection shouldn’t require their removal. 

·         Inspect and clean bottom bracket bearings/cups – Most modern cranksets have a self-extracting bolt holding the non-drive side arm to the spindle. All you need to begin crank removal is the proper size Allen wrench. If your crank is an older model where both the drive side arm and non-drive side arm are held on with bolts, you will need a crank removal tool. And if your crank is that old, you will also need the correct bottom bracket tool to remove the BB/cups from the frame. Modern systems don’t employ the use of external BB cups but they still require special tools for removal/installation of the bearings. The nice thing about today’s systems is that the tools required for the headset are also used for the bottom bracket.

·         Inspect and clean wheel bearings/cups – You will need cone wrenches for this job.  They are essentially an open end wrench but way thinner compared to what you would find at the hardware store. The front wheel is easier to work on than the rear wheel.  For the rear wheel, you may also need a chain whip and the appropriate cassette lock ring tool to remove the cassette if you wish.  

                

          

·         Replace brake and derailleur housing – Cable housing can last many years, unlike the inner wire. This is one of those “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” items. But if yours shows signs of breakdown: kinks, outer casing rips/tears, frayed ends, or the inner wire comes out dirty, then it’s time to replace them. Considering going “compression-less” (Nokon, I-links)? This is the time to do it. Using standard cable housing? Measure twice, cut once, or use your old housing as a measurement guide and use a quality cable cutter for clean cuts.

        

·         Check that wheels run true – A rough idea of the balance of your wheels can be done with the wheels still on the bike; spin them and use the brake pads to see if there are any lateral hops. You can even make rough corrections this way but you will need the proper size spoke wrench. However, to have the wheels trued precisely, you will need a truing stand. A dishing tool is helpful to align the wheel so that it runs exactly in the middle of the dropouts. Truing wheels, let alone building them from scratch, takes some skill and patience. The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt is an excellent companion.   

     

  

Advanced

            In addition to the “minimums” and “next steps”, add these for a complete check-up.

·         Complete overhaul – Just about everything wear related on the bike will get replaced. This is also a good time to consider upgrading parts.    

·         Remove and clean all parts – Strip the bike down to just the frame and clean all of the parts. An old toothbrush will be helpful to get in all the tight spaces.  

·         Replace all moving parts/bearings – If you’re considering upgrading to ceramic bearings, this is the perfect time to do it. 

·         Clean and chase threads with tap and die – A tap and die set will be necessary.  Be very careful not to cross thread anything or your bike won’t go back together.  

·         Anti-seize compound, grease, and carbon paste – Have you ever tried to remove a bolt only to find it won’t budge? Sweat is corrosive and sports drink mucks things up.  It will flow into even the smallest spaces, like the threads on bolts. Anti-seize will help prevent them from corroding together and is especially important if you are connecting dissimilar metals. Are you using an aluminum or titanium bolt? Coat the threads with anti-seize. If it’s a regular stainless steel bolt, coating the threads with grease will be fine. If you are installing carbon parts, like a seat post or base bar, use a coat of carbon paste on the clamp area. The paste will help keep those parts from slipping.  

Whether you choose to do these things yourself or have your LBS (local bike shop) perform them is up to you, your abilities and your comfort level. If you do choose to undertake these at home, I will stress again the importance of a good bike repair manual.  

Lastly, many triathletes and cyclists use indoor trainers during the winter/off season. Some even use an indoor trainer during the season because of schedules, safety, and getting a more focused training session. Try these trainer tips to keep your bike cleaner while using the trainer.

·         Use a bike sweat net.  This little contraption is an absorbent towel that connects to the seat post and stretches to connect to the bar and/or brake levers, covering your top tube and stem. They work pretty well.

·         Wrap top tube, down tube, headset/stem with plastic wrap.  Use this alone or in conjunction with the sweat net. When you wrap, start at the bottom of the bike and wrap up the down tube, around the head tube and stem, continue along the top tube, and finally, wrap down the seat tube back to the starting point. Doing it this way should prevent sweat droplets from entering the wrap overlap.

·         Use personal sweat towels during rides.  This should need no extra explaining.

·         Clean your bike once every week.  Sweat is extremely corrosive. Riding inside can compound this effect because you don’t have the “luxury” of wind blowing most of that sweat off of you.  Using a fan while indoor riding helps.    

·         Use a trainer tire and/or dedicated trainer wheel.  Tires specifically designed for hometrainers withstand the heat buildup from the roller better than regular tires. If you splurge for a dedicated trainer wheel, you won’t have to swap out tires on your regular wheelset nor will you add miles to it which will prolong the life of the bearings and cassette. Add a trainer only cassette and you won’t have to worry about excessive wear on your regular cassette either.    

Nixon's Nuggets - Spring Bike Maintenance 101

Think Spring!

Stewart Nixon represents the great state of Colorado on the Triple Threat Triathlon team. As I mentioned in his interview, he has a wealth of triathlon experience and wisdom... so much so, that I asked if he'd be willing to write a recurring guest column for the blog. He obliged, and we are all the better for it.

My main takeaway from the info below is that "never" is probably not a good strategy for any of the items... some I'll do on my own and others I won't, but the more educated and aware we are when it comes to bike maintenance, the better.

So sit back, relax, and learn as Nixon drops some serious nuggets of knowledge!

It’s getting to be spring time and along with the thaw of winter comes thoughts of venturing outdoors for our training rides. If your bike has endured a winter long season of trainer use, or even if it just sat all winter, unused since your last race, there are some steps you should take to ensure that your first day on the road, and the many days following, are not riddled with annoyances. 

This will be a two part post. Part one will cover some minimum maintenance items that I feel just about anyone can handle themselves at home. Part two will cover some advanced steps as well as a few tips to keep your bike cleaner while using it on your trainer. Of course, if you aren’t comfortable tackling your own bike maintenance, find a good local bike shop you can trust and develop a relationship. At the very least, you should be able to handle the first “minimum.” 

If you do wish to attempt any of this at home, I would highly recommend purchasing a bike repair manual to assist you. Sutherland’s Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics and the Barnett Bicycle Institute’s Manual are considered the Holy Grail of maintenance books but there are many adequate, less expensive options.

Minimums

Wash your bike top to bottom. A thorough cleaning will get you up close and personal with many easy to check items, killing two birds with one stone. There’s no real need to get fancy with the wash product; a grease cutting dishwashing liquid is more than adequate. Use a soft bristle brush and rinse, wash, rinse, but skip a high power hose. The pressure can push gunk where you don’t want it and force out grease where you do want it. Dry it with a soft, absorbent cloth. 

Clean the chain. You can do this with the chain on the bike or you can remove the chain from the bike to clean it. My favorite solvent to use is a citrus de-greaser. The tools shown are convenient to use, allowing the chain to remain on your bike. 

Chain washer and cog/chainring cleaner

Lubricate the chain. Is your drivetrain loud as you pedal? It is not uncommon for people training indoors to think that the chain does not need lubrication since it is exposed to few of the harsh elements we encounter outside. Though the lubrication interval may be extended while using your bike inside, it should not be neglected, and is definitely something you want to do before your first outdoor ride. I won’t go into the best lubricants for chains, as there are a myriad of lubricants available, but I will say do NOT use 3-in-1 oil, WD40, or automotive motor oil. 

Check chain stretch. You can use a metal ruler, tape measure or use a “chain checker” to measure the chain wear of your current chain. To get the most accurate measurement, this should be done with the chain on the bike so there is some tension on the chain. Line up an inch mark of the ruler with a link pin and measure out 12 complete links. A brand new chain will have the other link pin line up exactly on an inch mark. If your chain’s link pin is less than 1/16” beyond the inch mark, you’re fine. At 1/16” or greater you should replace the chain. If the link pin is 1/8” or more past the inch mark, you will probably have to replace some rear cogs and/or chainrings. If you do need to replace the chain and you are going to do the work yourself, you will need a chain breaker even though most modern chains are connected with some type of master link. The reason is that all chains come longer than what you will most often use necessitating the removal of some links to fit the chain properly. The easiest way to do this is to use your old chain as a length guide, popping off the links of the new chain that extend beyond your old one. 

Chain breaker, link pin tool, and chain checker

Check chainrings and cogs for wear. If you have used your chain well beyond the “replace” measurement, your cogs and chainrings can wear to best fit the wear on the chain. A new chain will not fix the wear on the other drivetrain parts and you will speed up the useful life of the new chain as it adapts to the old wear patterns. If you see daylight between the cogs/chainrings and a new chain (when under some tension), it’s time to replace some of those other parts.

new chain on a worn cog

Replace brake and derailleur inner wire. Brake and derailleur wires stretch with use due to their mechanical nature of operating. Over time, your shifting and braking become compromised in the form of chain skip (getting stuck between gears) and spongy brakes. If your inner wires are fairly new, you can just use the adjusting barrels to “tighten” things up. But if your inner wires haven’t been changed since last season (or longer), now is the time to replace them. It is also a good idea to coat the new inner wire with a light weight grease or oil to reduce friction within the housing. My favorite is Phil Wood Tenacious Oil. 

Check brake and derailleur housing. Modern cable housing doesn’t compress like the cable housing of old and generally if you are replacing the inner wire, you might as well replace the housing as well. At a minimum, check that the housing doesn’t have any kinks, frayed ends, or worn areas. If it does, replace it. If not, it’s up to you if you want to replace it. If replacing, now might also be a good time to consider using a “compression-less” housing like Nokon or I-link. It’s more expensive than traditional housing but some advantages include almost no compression of the housing giving you crisp shifts and positive brake feel, tighter bends without kinking, and in many cases it’s lighter weight than conventional housing. 

Check bar tape. No one likes a bike with beat up bar tape, it just looks ugly. If yours has seen better days, install some fresh tape. 

Check torque of all bolts. I would consider this optional since it is unlikely that any bolts have loosened, especially if your bike has sat unused all winter and if they were torqued correctly to begin with. But it doesn’t hurt to check them. Many parts have recommended torque settings printed on them. In the old days of steel everything, we just cranked it down until it was tight. With the advent of different materials, especially carbon fiber, it’s way more critical to tighten to the correct torque so you don’t overstress parts and endure a catastrophic failure. 

torque wrench

Clean brake track on rims and brake pads. I like to use a toothbrush and rubbing alcohol to do this. The toothbrush allows you to scrub any gunk buildup and the alcohol evaporates so there is no residue left on the brake surface. If they are really grimey, use a solvent like 409 or Simple Green and a rag then finish with the toothbrush and rubbing alcohol. For brake pads, first wipe them off with a clean, dry rag to remove any brake dust. Then inspect the surface for any silver bits (if you have aluminum rims.) You will want to remove those bits using some sort of tool with a sharp point. My favorite is an old shop trick of using an old spoke with the end ground down to a point. Finally, once all the bits are removed, you want to run over the pad surface with an Emory cloth or fine file to remove any glazing. If your brake pads don’t have the vertical grooves in them anymore, it’s time to replace the pads. 

Check tires for wear and that tubes hold air. Before your first ride, you’ll want to check your tires for any foreign objects imbedded in them, check the tread for overall wear and check that they hold air. If your tread is really worn, has cuts or slices, or has foreign objects imbedded, replace them now. If you ride clinchers, this would be a good time to check the rim strip between the rim and inner tube. You will need to deflate the tire and remove it to do this. Tire levers will facilitate tire removal. If you have box style rims and a rubber rim strip, consider replacing it with a more robust rim tape, like Velox. 

tire levers

In addition to the above items before your first ride outdoors, there are things you should check before every ride: 

Spin the wheels to make sure they are true. You can use the brake pads as a guide to any lateral hops in your wheels. 

Inflate and check the tires. You can lose up to 10% of your air pressure overnight with butyl tubes, even more with latex tubes. You also want a quick visual check of the tires for any foreign objects. Make sure the quick release mechanism is engaged and tight. When you close the lever, it should leave an imprint on your hand for a moment. Squeeze the brakes. If you have excessive travel of the brake lever, check that the brake quick release is not open. 

Run the gears through their range. If any of the gears don’t engage properly, twist the adjusting barrel until the problem is fixed. If the chain will not pop up to the next larger cog when shifting, turn the barrel counter-clockwise to increase tension. If the chain will not drop to the next smaller cog when shifting, turn the barrel clockwise to decrease tension.

These checks should take about 2-3 minutes to complete and will help ensure that at least the start of your ride is trouble free. 

Happy riding!

Latest Nugget:

Project Build It - Yes We Can!

Nixon's Nuggets: Project Build It - Yes We Can!

A few weeks ago I was talking to Stewart Nixon (Colorado) about my bike upgrade for 2016. I asked him questions such as "should I go with a bike ready to ride or build up a frame myself?" and sought out his advice on components, new vs. used parts, etc, etc. After our conversation, Stewart gracefully offered to write up some of the things we discussed. Great information if you're looking to upgrade and/or build up a bike of your own for next season.

As we enter the offseason, one question we often ask ourselves is that of bike upgrades. Should I get a new bike? Should I upgrade components? For the purposes of this blog, let's assume that you have decided on a new bike. Should you go with one of the offered build packages or just get the frame and piece the gruppo together yourself?

Stewart is always front & center when it comes to mechanical questions for our team

Buying all new is the simplest route to go. All decisions regarding components are generally made for you if you go with a gruppo offered by the shop or frame maker. The company slaps on the parts and away you go. But if you want to save a little money (who doesn't, especially in a sport as expensive as ours), you can buy just the frame and piece together a gruppo. And you don't need to have all matching parts, nor brand new, except for a couple of instances.

First, let's go over the brand new parts you should buy:

• Chain. These are wear items which generally get changed each year depending on how much mileage/use you put it through. If you have a few bikes you ride, which many of us do, you can extend the change time. There are inexpensive tools available which check the stretch of the chain.

• Cassette. Another wear item like the chain, although the change interval is not nearly as often. Replacing a cassette due to wear is generally because of neglect with the chain. But since cassettes are pretty cheap nowadays, starting with new is a good idea.

the foundation on which I will build: the Argon E117 frame

• Headset. Headsets see a lot of corrosive elements during their service life - sweat, water, dirt, sports drinks. Properly taken care of, they will give you many years of trouble free operation. New headsets are relatively cheap, however, so buying new shouldn't put a significant dent in your build budget. And with today's integrated headsets, it's just bearings to replace anyway.

• Bottom Bracket. If your build is using an older style crank with separate bottom bracket, I would opt for new on a build. BBs see the same corrosive gunk that headsets see but with the rise in newer style cranks, their prices have fallen. If your frame utilizes one of the newer style systems (BB30, etc.) you could just buy new bearings and have them pressed in by a shop or do it yourself if you're building your own bike.

• Cables/Housing. I almost feel as though this shouldn't get special mention, but I'll say it anyway so there is no confusion. On a new build, use new cables and housing. Mechanical shifting and brakes stretch the cable and compress the housing. Over time, brakes become spongy and shifting is not a crisp as it once was. Cables and housing are cheap, even the compressionless housing.

• Bar tape. Buy new. New looks fresh. It feels fresh. And it's cheap. 

Now on to the components which could be purchased second hand.

Generally, purchases of this type are made through classifieds, auction sites, swap meets, or shops specializing in used parts. As you peruse used parts, pay attention to cosmetic appearance as that can often give an indication of how it was treated by the previous owner. Also, ask the approximate mileage on parts. This will tell you when serviceable parts, like the pulleys on rear derailleurs, might need to be replaced. When buying used, caveat emptor applies - do your homework.

Stewart promised I'd be able to ride like Terenzo Bozzone once my build is complete.

• Rear derailleur/Shifters. I put these together because you want to keep this part of the drivetrain in the same model line to ensure crisp, clean, accurate shifting. Pay attention to cosmetics as a heavily scuffed RD is often a sign of being involved in a crash. I would not worry about derailleur pulleys as these are inexpensive items to replace and even a shade tree mechanic could do the work themselves. Also look closely at the threads on the hanger bolt, although if cross threading has occurred, the bolt is replaceable. With regard to shifters, the same cosmetics apply, Heavily scuffed shifters would be an indication of a crash or crashes.

Shimano Ultra Groupset or "Gruppo"

• Front derailleur. Here is an area where you can save some money. FDs movement are not only mechanical but also friction; there is no click with shifts. If you want to stay with the same manufacturer, you can easily drop down two model lines without compromising performance. But you don't have to stay with the same manufacturer, mixing brands is perfectly fine. As with RDs and shifters, look at cosmetics of the FD you are considering.

• Crank. Make sure the crank matches the BB of your frame, whether it's an older style or newer style. Look closely for any major scuff marks (often shoes will make contact with crank arms, leaving worn marks - nothing to worry about) and inspect the pedal threads. If there is evidence of cross threading, I would not buy it. Often you can chase the threads with a tap, but there is no guarantee that will solve the problem. You should be able to hand thread a pedal into a crank arm with little resistance.

• Pedals. Often, new bike build options don't include pedals and would require a separate purchase. The main reason for this is personal preference - everyone has their favorite pedal system that would get swapped out for whatever is offered in the build. When buying second hand, look for scuff marks on the pedal body. The heavier the marks, the more likely they were involved in a crash. If buying in person, spin the spindle. If it is smooth, you should be fine. If gritty, question your purchase. While pedal bearings are serviceable/replaceable, it's kind of a pain. Also pay attention to the spindle threads; they should not be chewed up or worn flat.

SRAM Red

• Stem. Unless there are cracks in the stem, used us totally fine. Make sure to check the steerer bolts and stem plate bolts for signs of cross threading. Rusty looking bolts can be replaced and are cheap. Remember, this area of the bike does see a lot of corrosive elements as described earlier. This is also a place you could upgrade to used carbon if you so desire. Pay attention to the clearcoat if going that route.

• Bars. Unless they have been involved in a crash or are part of a recall, used is perfectly fine. Look carefully for cracks and pay attention to the clearcoat if considering carbon. Incidental scuffs are fine and usually happen when leaning the bike against something.

• Wheels. Many triathletes have a set of dedicated race wheels, so this could be an area for significant savings. And having a set of bombproof wheels for training won't drain your budget. Pay attention to hub spacing for your cassette. Unless you are looking specifically at vintage parts, the wheels you get will have a sealed bearing hub which means replacing the bearings is relatively easy and inexpensive.

• Brakes and Levers. Matched sets (calipers and levers) take the guess work out of the equation but you can mix brands. (If you need brifters (brake/shifter combo), get the same model as the RD you are considering.) Just pay attention to actuation ratios as some levers won't work with some calipers. Keep in mind that Dura Ace is the stopping power standard often used when bike magazines test different brakes. With regard to levers, be sure to look for obvious signs of being involved in a crash. Pads are cheap, as you will probably install a fresh set on your build. And remember there are different compounds for carbon rims and aluminum rims.

• Seatpost. Many newer frames utilize an integrated seatpost. If that is what you have, you can skip this section. If your build uses a separate seatpost, buying a used one is fine. If you are looking at a carbon piece, the same clearcoat guidelines for other carbon components apply here as well. One practice that happens often is cutting off some of the unused portion of the seatpost that resides inside the seat tube. This is totally fine as long as enough is left inside the frame for the binder section to clamp onto. Personally, I would steer away from a used post that has been cut; there may not be enough post left to guarantee your safety when installed and you can't be sure of the method used by the previous owner to cut it.

• Saddle. This piece of equipment could go either way, new or used. If you like to ride a shell, with no padding, then used is just fine. Often, new bikes end up with the saddle they are sold with being swapped out for one the customer prefers. These end up being sold "like new" and a great deal can be had. Padding and covers can degrade over time and with years of regular use, so look closely at what you are considering if buying second hand.

• Miscellaneous items. Things like water bottle cages, behind the saddle carriers, nutrition carriers can all be purchased used.

Good deals abound on the second hand market. It's best to be able to actually hold the parts you are considering so you can get a first hand look at their condition. For this, swap meets and shops specializing in used parts can be a gold mine. 

Unfortunately, these are few and far between these days. This leaves classified ads and auction sites for most of your buying with just pictures to gauge the condition of parts. So I will say again, ask questions and if there aren't enough pictures, ask for more. Most motivated sellers will accommodate this request. Don't forget to research what it costs new and what most are asking for it used. A simple search will accomplish this. And one final piece of advice (again), caveat emptor!

Nixon's Nuggets of Knowledge - Archives:

Nixon's Nuggets - Spring Bike Maintenance 101

Nixon's Nuggets - Spring Bike Maintenance: Advanced Course

Nixon's Nuggets - Chain Suck Sucks

Nixon's Nuggets - Roka Maverick Pro Review

Nixon's Nuggets - Indoor Trainers... A Pain Cave Necessity

Nixon's Nuggets - Tubulars vs. Clinchers